We all fall into it, when we start to train our dogs. We want to treat our dog with love and kindness, and sometimes, we just want them to follow our cues, or follow along quickly--- and it works!
Want our dog to come inside? Show them the food!
Want our dog to sit? Shake the treat bag.
Want our dog to follow us inside? Shake the food dish.
Have you ever heard of someone saying they don't want to "treat train" their dogs because they'll rely on food to perform behavior? That's bribery, not positive reinforcement.
... And hey, I'm certainly speaking from experience!
Positive reinforcement is “when a behavior is followed immediately by the presentation of a stimulus that increases the future frequency of the behavior” (Cooper, Heron, & Heward, 2007). Bribery is “something that serves to induce or influence” (Merriam-webster). Bribery typically offered before a desired behavior happens.
Sometimes, it can be a fine line. Here's where the study of behavior gets complicated. It truly is all about the timing! If your dog is hearing a cue, offering a behavior, then being rewarded, that is positive reinforcement. If you need an indicator that a reward is coming (such as showing your dog a bag of treats, a toy, or a food bowl), that is bribery. Once you step down bribery lane, you'll need to be very careful about the timing of your reinforcements to truly allow your dog to learn! For example, rather than shaking the treat bag for your dog to sit, you'll want to have hidden jars of rewards around the house or food hidden in your pocket. You can cue your dog, then offer a reward. However, we often assume our dog knows a bit more than they do, so you'll want to be sure to work with your dog often so you are 100% sure they will know exactly what you are asking for.
The timing is important, and it's easy to read about online or in a book. But in practice, marking behavior accurately and clearly to your dog will make all the difference... The timing, placement of your rewards, management of your dog, and type of rewards will make all the difference.
This is where a qualified trainer or behaviorist can help you!
If I didn't cue "puppy Max" at only 8 months old, he would naturally want to bolt out a door, steal food off of the counter, and generally be a goon on a leash, going wherever his nose took him with no regard for how my body feels. But overtime, and with training, he learned. If I tell him "Wait", and bring all my groceries in, he will sit in front of an open door and wait for 20 minutes if I need it now. If I cue him to walk by saying "with me!", he would pop right back into a great heel position. With learned cues, he's a dream. However, when left to his own devices, to make his own choices, in situations he hasn't been in, he isn't always a dream dog who makes great choices. If you're ever curious, I'd be happy to tell you some fun stories.
Many find that unusual in the moment when I explain some of his anecdotes (his "dog choices" are particularly hilarious naturally!).
But, I would argue all dogs think like this.
I shudder to think where many of Max's "dog choices" would take him, if he made them all on his own (ask me about the sunny day, and the sunroof)! However, he's learned to make the "human choice" a large majority of the time.
Why? Because in our daily interactions, all of these choices were positively reinforced far more times than the "dog choice" was naturally! His natural behavior of barking at the door (the "dog choice" from puppy Max) would become extinct if it never, or almost never worked, but sitting quietly always earned him the freedom of the great outdoors, and the occasional treat. He has simply gained a greater reward over and over again from the "human choice". I chose sit for so many things because it's almost never a problem behavior, and a really easy to understand "human choice" that can apply to so many situations.
When the communication isn't clear, he just doesn't get it and makes "dog choices". Dog choices are what he finds fantastic and rewarding to do in the moment. These include when I haven't taught him a cue, and I expect him to politely walk with me on the beach (the "human choice")--- But "WHAT IS HE DOING? Oh, he's chasing that seagull all over the place" (dog choice), right? My "human choices" don't carry nearly the reward of "dog choices", unless I've taught him with plenty of rewards that they DO. "Dog choices" may change with breeds, drives, and previous experiences in all sorts of situations, but this is where the fun lies in dog training.
Is your dog's "dog choice" greeting to jump up to the face of a human visitor? How do we teach them to get to the "human choice"? We teach them that their "dog choice" of jumping gains no/limited reward (ahem, no instant attention of any sort, pulling them down, and general interaction), and that the "human choice" of sitting politely will get them all the food, us dropping to their level, and plenty of praise/attention. Our goal in dog training is to align the "human choice" and the "dog choice" to mean the same thing.
We continue communicating consistently in our every day interactions to reinforce that the dog choice and the human choice should align. We manage behavior (using leashes, crates, separation from certain stimuli like wildlife as needed) so the "dog choice" doesn't gain a bigger reward than the "human choice" and become a habit. We increase the frequency of the "human choice" gaining bigger rewards than the "dog choice" consistently enough for the choice to become the "only choice" until the great behavior we are looking for is a pattern.
One of my favorite dog trainers used to refer to dogs as our "gullible best friend" and it's totally a great analogy that stuck with me (Thanks, Andre!). They only do what we've taught them to, but they are easily convinced (once we've taught them) that this is the way the world works.
On the plus side, you also don't need to use anything forceful or any real addition of a punishment to teach them that the "human choice" is the right way--- generally speaking. But, that's a story for a different day.
Maybe, reading this article, you've been there before: You head to pick up your family pup from daycare, and you're met with an uncomfortable conversation. "Your dog isn't welcome here" is basically the gist of it, and it's totally unexpected for you. It's kind of embarrassing, and you're a little bit offended. Your dog LOVES other dogs. They love playing, enjoy every person they meet, and they need the exercise. They're great with 99% of other dogs. "Did he hurt someone?", you ask. "No, he didn't but it's an accident waiting to happen, and we don't recommend daycare for him". You should be ecstatic. You've actually encountered one of the most responsible facilities out there, willing to be honest about the needs of your pup in lieu of a loss of business.
Daycare is the place for the "extreme extrovert" of dogs. Structure is difficult when you have a large group of dogs in a relatively small and fenced space. Some dogs do well amongst themselves, and some dogs show signs of stress and nervous behavior. Only a small percentage of dogs feel primarily positive emotions from the idea of daycare. Sure, even dogs who do belong there or fall into that range as a puppy, eventually mature and find they need time to themselves- which means either daycare with less frequency or quiet walks with a human and a close dog friend instead. Most healthy adult dogs do sleep often, deeply, and a lot--- and eventually become a little less tolerant of younger, less "well mannered" dogs. It's akin to an adult playing with 50 children and teenagers. You're just going to want to do different things. A quiet dinner with 2 or 3 folks, maybe. You become less tolerant of 10 hours of a wild party as you get older (or- errr, well most of us!). Those of us that still enjoy the party life, we'd probably consider 10%? Maybe more or less depending on who you know?
It's not a secret in the industry that some dogs just aren't cut out for daycare. Many dogs would much prefer to be home on the couch with a less stimulating version of their preferred exercise. Rarely, do adult, moderate-drive, average dogs need more than 2 hours of intense aerobic exercise per day. If they do, "practice calm" is probably a tougher mental exercise and more helpful than any athletic pursuits. Out-exercising them at daycare can be a tough pursuit, and over time will actually increase their endurance for more exercise. Mental exercise and the ability to control their impulses and excitement is much more impressive, and a lot of mental work for these pups. Naturally, they can practice "ramping up" for activity, preferably in a place of more structure than daycare, like a dog sport, enrichment, or training. We're much more impressed with the calmness of a "drivey" border collie in our home life, than we are with how fast they can run.
Do we just hate daycare? Of course not! It's incredibly appropriate with the right amount of structure- especially for young dogs that gain a lot from socializing. However, if you see signs your dog is stressed at daycare (excessive tiredness from stress, holding urination and defecation until you pick them up to go home), you might want to think about scaling back, adding more structured activities and training, and evaluating what would make your pup REALLY happy---- Oh, and go thank that daycare who was upfront about your dogs needs, and kicked you out!
We hear it ALL the time: "My dog is not very well trained".
Do you picture:
-A doberman holding a sit/stay for 35 minutes, while all sorts of distractions pass?
-That labrador who is a trained service dog in a restaurant, looking absolutely debonaire?
-A border collie so motivated to work he will keep himself busy training in impressive dog sports, grabbing his owner a drink out of the fridge, and learning an endless stream of obedience cues?
-That Mastiff that never seems to jump or move from the couch?
"My dog is not very well trained. He barks at me when he hears something outdoors, wants to go out, or simply wants attention. He is not very good at listening on the trail, and oh my- I could never let him off the leash! He never sits longer than it takes me to close the treat bag! He'll wait for dinner, but forget it if there's no food around!"
Here's the thing: You are always training your dog... and your dog is very well trained!
I laugh at the intelligence of my dog once I realize it. It's impressive how many of my habits my pup can pick up on... And if you want to talk about some serious intelligence, the scary and uncanny ability of my scarlet macaw, Rex, to pick up on my routines, common phrases, emotions, and frustrations. However, I don't feel like my dog's behavior is controlling my life. Why? Because we meet in the middle and "opt in" to behavior that suits as both (with adjustments as needed!).
It's actually very, very impressive! You've trained him to bark to open the door. You've trained him to bark for his breakfast, and you've trained him to jump on you when you come home from work... and you've probably even trained your pup to sit very well when you pick up the treat bag, or come running for cheese when the fridge opens. You've absolutely done the best job of doing it!
I don't mind begging. I think it's absolutely adorable and I greatly enjoy my dog sitting next to me, occasionally getting a bite of food. But- the game ends if he ends up on my lap. It ends if he vocalizes. It ends if he uses his paws. Often, I eat dinner with my dog staring and sitting politely- we're happy with that. He's great company. But that's surely not a goal for every pet owner; some of my clients prefer their dogs to sit on a rug with the "place" cue, and that is something we will teach them!
Our goal in our trainer-client relationship is to meet in the middle. We can teach your dog an appropriate behavior to get to the route they want. We make their default behavior a harder way to get what they want, and we make the "right thing" (our idea of proper behavior) an easy way to get what they want. In fact, if your pup communicates in a way that you prefer, jump up and work with that communication! We can teach you how to communicate- after all, that's what dog training should be about. It won't take endless hours. But, it will take consistency in your communications, some thought, and potentially a little bit of family therapy together.
You decide what behaviors will work for you, and we work together to figure out how to strengthen your communication to limit and eliminate those habits, by teaching an alternate route.
"What if they see a deer?"
"Won't they just run away?"
"Really, you can do it in 10 days?"
To be clear, we would never advocate unleashing a pet without the proper skills to be off leash. Please contact us for assistance - We're happy to help!
When you're responsible for the safety of your pet, you tend to heir on the side of caution, as a safe dog owner. It's responsible. It allows full control of the situation, and it really ensures your dog is physically attached to you at all times. But, at the end of the day, controlling every situation is not always possible- and we love preparing for the unexpected. Uncle Jim comes over and lets the dog out, your son's friend who is a little bit flaky forgets to latch the gate, and your Mom falls walking your dog, dropping the leash. Accidents happen! We want being off leash to be normal to your puppy, not a one off event that happens when there's an exciting chance to escape.
Basic recall skills are just as important as learning to be a social dog, and perhaps even more important than learning basic obedience. You're inevitably going to end up in one of these "out of control" situations in life, and we want you to be prepared. I refer to the age before adolescence as the "duckling stage". These little darling duckling puppies that you've had since they were young follow you everywhere without a second guess or thought about moving in another direction. This, my dear friends, is the time to start teaching your puppy that being around you is the BEST place to be.
Does your puppy check in with you every 10 feet on the trail? Praise, and treat.
Is your puppy just an expert with the cue "Come!" in the house? Praise, and treat.
Did your puppy get slightly insecure about a new experience and come running back to you? Praise, and treat.
When your puppy turns into a 6 month old adolescent, pushing boundaries and exploring alternate paths to get what they want, you're not going to want to introduce off leash for the first time without proper precautions. Boundary pushing, and a newfound off leash habit is a recipe for a bit of a disaster. We run a popular off leash program, to introduce this concept in a safe, reliable way. This program offers: 1. Consistency, 2. Repetition, and 3. Fun!
From managing the environment (stopping any bolting or distracting behavior with a long lead line attached while we practice) to creating positive associations and plenty of repetitions returning to their human, we create consistency in recall for 2 weeks. My dog will be less motivated to chase that squirrel than they will returning to me if (and only if) they receive plenty of rewards for returning to my side. Alternatively, taking natural drives into consideration will lead us to how many repetitions will be needed, what environments we will need to practice in, and what we will need to desensitize to lead to an off leash trained dog. That being said, in any environment, we can't always predict what your pup will be most interested in. So, starting with some long-lead training is the safest way to complete this training. Alternatively, practicing in a fenced in area can help too!
We run an off leash course at least once monthly. We'd love to help with any pup whose owners are struggling with off leash recall.
***DISCLAIMER: Off leash skills are important for all puppies in training, but we feel that these sessions should be overseen by a professional whenever possible, if your puppy is older than 12 weeks, if your puppy has ever bolted away from you, or if you have an adult dog. If a dog has gained rewards for bolting away from you, that is a much different and more structured process. We need to be careful to work through your dogs natural drives, desensitize them to stimuli as needed, and monitor their personal reactions to stimuli around them.***
I debated putting pen to paper on this one for a long time... A really long time! I finally am putting this out there.
Leash reactivity drives me up a freaking wall. It's relatively simple to fix with classical conditioning (appearance of stranger in a place... at a distance below threshold) allows an association of scary thing with full on reward. It's also pretty easy to fix with operant conditioning. This is more of "do this" (sit, look at me, down, etc) and I will reward you while the scary thing walks by. That's somewhat of a management technique. Also, bribery works really well if you find yourself in a situation where your reactive pup is in sensory overload and a stranger walks out of some dark alley 3 feet from you... I find a steady stream of roast beef or cheese will get us through this situation as long as the stranger doesn't reach for the dog to pet them- or anything silly like that. This is also the reason basket muzzles were invented and should be normal, I think!
But long term, I often wonder "where does this come from?"
I don't mean where does this come from like "I don't understand how this starts". Surely, it can come from many sources- An introverted "non-dog" dog being put into busy situations, a dog who has had a bad experience on a leash, or a dog whose leash is used as a "seatbelt" strapping them in to situations they are not ready for time and time again. (Well, they can't hurt anyone... So what harm is it doing?... I hear...)
We forget, our dogs aren't robots. We cannot and should not have robotic expectations of them. If your dog is showing signs of stress on a leash again, and again, they are going to start associating being leashed with those stressful situations. You can easily and readily create anxiety on a leash as you can creating anxiety at the vet.
I've had this foster dog, Elton. He's an incredible dog. He snuggles on the couch. He looks to you for answers. But I noticed from the first time that I met him he has heightened anxiety on a leash. Not heightened anxiety like-- lunging and growling. Nothing crazy... For a pittie especially, he's just a big ole scaredy cat! To be honest, he's so emotionally in tune and sensitive, he'll know the second you are having a bad day (he's on your lap)! Or, if you are training with him, he'll pick up that he's moving in the wrong direction with just a look. He's incredibly trainable. He was my foster pup for months!
It took me about 2 months to find the original story; Elton was tied to a pole on Elton St in Mississippi and abandoned originally as a pup. It makes a lot of sense. The second he was stressed (base level anxiety from being leashed in the first place), he remained emotionally heightened for the week- resulting in mild resource guarding with other dogs, generalized anxiety (chewing something), being "on edge" with other dogs, and not listening/cueing in to his human handlers. His anxiety would remain amped up for the duration of the week. It wasn't that he was generally bad at anything - He wasn't a dog with these behaviors when he was living a low anxiety lifestyle overall. Easily, these behaviors could amplify if he was not allowed to settle back down (have the same routine, seeing the same people for a week or so).
Alternatively, I quickly learned with Elton, that leashes (and crates!), my typical management tools for dogs, caused and ramped up generalized anxiety for him. Also, we spent a lot of time on my property at home- off leash, happy, running around with as many other dogs and new people as he could. He was super stable with changes in his environment as long as he stayed put (from 3 new dogs in and out every day), to visitors. I taught him a goofy version of a non-militant "place" cue. Every time someone came in, I told him to "go to his couch". I could tell he was cueing from me whether he should be anxious and greet the stranger or not. When he was off leash at my house, he had the ability to "make his own decisions". He could, for example, flee a dog that was making him uncomfortable outside. He could wide-eyed stare at the other people, and settle/play as soon as he felt comfortable. And that moment of "comfort" came faster and faster.
In this situation, and when I tell people of Elton's problems (including families he'd trialed with), they'd say "we just didn't know how he'd be so we kept him on a leash". This was the problem right there! With heightened anxiety on a leash, and the addition of new stimuli, along with Elton not being able to make his own choices, Elton wouldn't know how to handle himself, or his interactions with other humans and dogs. When he knew he could wander into the woods, or be safe on his couch, he no longer had any interest in the "fight" response that comes with stress. He'd choose reassurance. He'd choose non-confrontation. He'd choose to self-sooth with a toy, or he'd choose to hide on his couch or distract himself by sniffing in the woods.
Off leash for this pup was critical. As founders of a rescue with so many strays and runaways, the girls who had assigned him to my care as his foster Mom were nervous. Elton had been returned for running away many times down South. But, rebuilding his confidence around people and other dogs surely would teach Elton to default to relying on his human, not on his own responses and triggers.
Elton doesn't want to make his own decisions. He wants to be one of a group of dogs, off the leash, with the ability to move himself away from danger.
I like to think of anxiety like a cup. "Triggers" for any particular dog add to the cup, and positives like the freedom to move away from the trigger removes a bit of water from the cup. For Elton, anxiety inducing things (like being on a leash) fills up about 80% of this cup. Right away. In one fell swoop. Being crated or contained or always leashed outside, adds about a 20% base level of water to this cup. These "containment" things that are typically safety measures for other dogs will just fill his cup right to the top, so the first new stimulus that happens will just push him over the edge. On a normal basis, this would be a "flee" response for goofy Elton. But, in extreme cases, this results in more of a "fight response" for him. As long as this cup is empty, he is GREAT with other dogs, humans, children, and absolutely anyone he comes across. He loves car rides, dunkin donuts, and things he's associated as positives.
To the careful, type A person, they always believe in a dog being leashed or being the one controlling the situation. If this is you, Elton is not at all for you. He will take kindly to cues, working for his food, and light direction, but forced containment will cause Elton a boatload of anxiety. It will trick you, as being on a leash will not make him lash out uncontrollably the second it is put on... But it will make him anxious internally. And anxiety leads to reactions. He'd be a great dog for someone who wants to leave him home on his couch for 12 hours a day, and enjoy laughing at his zoomies outside for only 30 minutes. He promises to never make you exercise too hard, or have an abundance of energy. He doesn't need 2-4 hours of aerobic exercise a day like a vizsla. He doesn't care if you go out for a drink after work. He probably hasn't even noticed he hasn't been out to go to the bathroom since the morning, as he sleeps so soundly. Fortunately, if you want the lowest key/routined dog on the planet, then Elton is for you.
Elton is searching for his forever home. Reach out if you think these circumstances could be a great match for your home, and I will connect you with his rescue.
We all know our pet doesn't understand the English language, but us well meaning humans talk to our dogs in all different scenarios. We tell them about our day, we explain where we're going, and we tell them how much we love them! It's natural to tell them, in English, what we want them to do and what we don't want to see.
When I first enter a client's home, I see owners stating "No!" or "Down!" then try it a little louder while their dog is jumping all over me when I come in. It makes me smile... It's not a big deal in that moment. These well-meaning pet owners just haven't quite learned how to communicate with their dog, and it's really one of my favorite things to teach.
It really truly shows the pet owner the magic of dog training... or "family therapy", as I like to call it.
There are three things that happen when you learn your dog will never understand a negative, "don't", "no", "down!" and "stop!" just are not in their vocabulary. Dogs exhibit behaviors when they work, or alternatively it's their default because they haven't learned what to do to get what they want yet! From that perspective, I'd like you to take a look at why your dog may be jumping.
1. It gets your attention.
2. They've been ignored. Jumping at some point has been reinforced, so that tells them to do the behavior that once worked (even that one time, when grandpa stopped over!... or with the kids... or only with Dad...) just a little bit more... and more... and more... until you're forced to be chasing them around again.
This is why we see continual jumping problems even when the dog is ignored.
Now, let's chat about if we stop telling our pup "not to" and we start teaching them that there is a faster way to get what they want! To take it even further, let's add a little incentive the first few times (like a food based reward) to show them that that is really the fast track to the attention they are looking for.
We're going to bring our dog from:
People coming in (pup is looking for attention!) => Jumping = people yelling and chasing and pulling me down = "That was great attention... Let's do it again!!!!"
People coming in (pup is looking for attention!) => Jumping = being ignored = jump EVEN MORE until they have to pull me down ("YAY! Attention... Jumping MORE worked!)
Ignoring is part of the equation, but it doesn't work on it's own! You may see your pup jump MORE THAN EVER the first time you ignore that behavior.
People coming in => Sitting => Human comes down to my level to greet me (Reward: Attention!), and I might get a food based reward
People coming in => Place cue => Reward (food based, attention- when I'm in my "place", etc)
People coming in => Going to grab my toy for a game of fetch! (sit cue, drop toy cue!) => Reward (game of fetch, squeaky toy reward, etc)
The key is showing your dog what you DO want them to do, as well as a variety of steps to ensure that we're setting them up for success.
You can see here, from these examples, that you teach many alternate behaviors/rewards to prevent jumping... but telling them "No!" surely won't explain to your pet what you DO want to see!
We are ridiculously excited to announce our new business venture...
A dog daycare is a great way to socialize your pet, help them enjoy interactions with other dogs, and tire them out! Who doesn't love coming home to a tired, happy pet? And we LOVE the idea of that.
In practice, typical and traditional dog daycares manage 100+ dogs in a facility. It is a space for your dog to exercise. It is a place for the most stable, extroverted of dogs to play, run, romp, and socialize
... But some of your dogs need just a little bit more!
Many of our client dogs join us on hikes and low key trips to the dog park during the day with our pet care service, either in lieu of or in addition to their regular daycare facility. With the success of these programs, such as day training, puppy socialization, and longer hikes, we decided we'd really like to provide the same individualized care in a central facility, which will be open from 5:30am to 7:00pm. We can even transport your pet to and from the facility with our pet care company.
For some pets, daycare is just too stressful of an environment with too much stimulation. This can lead to dog fights, bites, poor behavior, or simply one very stressed dog during a long day at daycare. In addition, many pets need the individualized care and training that comes with a day school facility. From teaching your pets to "sit" before opening doors (showing impulse control) to controlled play sessions tailored to your dog (hikes, romps with other puppies of their size), and a calm "meditation room" featuring a TV, human companionship, and comfortable couches. These are the pups whose excellent pet parents require excellent care- academy style!
We look forward to caring for your pets while you are away! We will also be ecstatic to offer care where your pet can join us all day at the day school, and sleep in their own home at night. Ask us how we can help your pet!
We are ecstatic to meet the unique needs of your pet!
We're coming to the town of Berwick, ME in winter 2019!
Follow us on facebook for updates: www.facebook.com/canineacademyberwick
Here at Kara's Pet Care, we are passionate about in-home pet care. Pets in an environment they are unfamiliar with, regardless of the quality of care, may exhibit signs of stress in even the best of situations. We would like to help you identify what is right for you and your pet!
Typical signs of kennel stress:
-Low activity upon return home
-Low appetite upon return home or within first few days at a kennel or boarding situation
-Loose bowel movements or diarrhea upon returning home
-Holding urination or defecation until returning home
-Illness at a kennel or upon return
Almost everyone in our industry cares incredibly deeply for your pet, and are very well-intentioned, even if you see the above signs of stress. A change in environment can cause stress for some dogs, while other dogs remain unaffected. For example, wild parties are a great source of fun for many people, who tend to be more extroverted. They enjoy the busy nightlife, and socializing extensively with friends at all hours of the night and day. I, however, tend to Netflix Friends for extended periods of times on my CRAZY Friday nights, so I find the wild party on a Friday night to be EXTRAORDINARY stressful- and I tend to massively oversleep after a big event.
Watching for these signs in your dog, especially upon returning home, may help you decide what is right for your pet. Unfortunately, in a large group caring for the needs of many dogs, these signs may be difficult to monitor for kennel staff.
It is common to believe many of these signs are from your pet having so much fun--- but sometimes the distraction is not an indicator of fun, but an indicator of being stressed or hyper stimulated for an extended period of time. Therefore, they are not concerned with fulfilling their most basic needs (water, food, elimination).
With in home pet care services, your pet receives the closest care to the care their own pet parents give at home. Their familiar napping spots, the food they eat, their daily routine, and their favorite activities can all be enjoyed while their pet parents are way. Pet care services in your home allow you to dictate the best care for your pet- and we feel you know your pet, and what they enjoy, the best.
Of particular importance are pets with severe medical issues. Many pets in our care take medications, and a professional pet care company will give medications in the exact way, timing, etc by trusted pet care professionals with backgrounds in veterinary technology, dog training, shelter work, and other related fields. Many trusted in home pet care companies will provide assurance that your pet's needs were met, with updates from apps such as Scout, Handlr, Time to Pet, etc. These apps will show GPS tracked check in and check out, photos of every medication your pet was given, photos of food dishes, photos of litter boxes, and house sitting tasks attended to.
With personalized in-home pet care, you are sent reports and can be in touch - personally - with those who are caring for your pet. You can also indicate the type of exercise and frequency that your pet is used to! Many pet care companies will give you a choice of on-leash walking, on-leash hiking, off leash hiking, mental stimulation/exercises, dog park adventures, etc. Personalized in-home pet care can also be a great tool for "reactive" dogs, pets with medical concerns, or simply great care for pet parents who prefer to stay well-informed.
Here at Kara's Pet Care, which serves the NH seacoast, and Southern Maine, we love sharing how we can help your pet be incredibly comfortable and feel like they are on vacation while you are away!
-Kara Dello Russo
Kara's Pet Care
170 Commerce Way #203
Portsmouth, NH 03801
Download the Handlr app today to book a complimentary consultation.